new annual HestonandFuzzy

mmm not good



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYTTtjhSMlA&hl=en

Picking Indoor Rails for a Balcony

If you have a big holiday cookout planned, you may be looking at your tired old patio furniture with disgust. If it is outdated, dirty or in need of repair, this may be just the time for new furniture. If you want to save money, follow these tips to help you do the best shopping on the net, in the stores and even in second hand stores.

Here are four great ways to find bargains in patio furniture.

The Internet:

Do your shopping on the Internet first. This is an easy way to find out the styles you like while saving time, trouble and gas. You can do all your comparison shopping on line, so even if you decide to go elsewhere, you will have an excellent idea of the the styles available and the prices ranges of the pieces you like. With this information in hand, you can find the best bargains anywhere.

Shopping the discount stores:

Discount furniture stores frequently have great bargains on outdoor furniture. Check the clearance area, or even the damaged goods area. A scratch might be on a spot that will be against a wall on your patio anyway! Don't forget that outdoor furniture stores turn into Christmas stores after the summer, so close to the end of summer may be a good time to pick up bargain inventory that they do not want to hold onto.

Consider thrift or second hand stores:

There can be great bargains on quality items at thrift stores. Many people move out and cannot bring furniture with them and so donate perfectly good items to thrift shops. You won't have the full choice, but the prices cannot be beat, and by just changing the cushions or adding a new umbrella you can change the look anyway.

Garage sales and Yard sales:

When spring and summer arrive, you know that garage sales are not far behind. Many people want to update their furniture and what may be old furniture that they have been looking at too long may be new and interesting looking to you. Plus, you can usually make your own price, within reason. Moving sales are a really good way to do some bargaining because if a family is downsizing to an apartment without a yard, they may have to get rid of their outdoor items at almost any price.

So check out these resources first: the Internet, discount stores, thrift stores and garage sales. Have fun and save money at the same time.

Be Careful When Installing Grab Bars Around Toilets and Bathtubs

There is nothing worse than installing a toilet grab bar around your toilets, only to find out later that they weren't supported properly. If you've ever went to grab onto a safety grab bar around a bathtub or a toilet, only to find out that it pulled off the wall, it probably wasn't secured properly.

This isn't something that happens a lot in commercial properties, hotels or new construction, but if you're seriously considering installing grab bars around your toilets and bathtubs, it wouldn't be a bad idea to make sure that they were installed correctly.

I have seen these grab bars attached in so many different ways that create safety hazards for anyone who put enough pressure on them. It's never a good idea to install a grab bar with out having sufficient backing behind the areas that you are planning on attaching them to.

In other words, if someone is going to install a grab bar, there's a good chance that they are going to need to attach something to the exterior of the wall, that will support the weight of an individual as they use them, or someone will need to remove the drywall or plaster to install the proper wood supports.

The main point that I'm trying to make here, is that most standard sized grab bars will not be able to be installed properly in most homes, with out installing the proper packing first. When ever someone installs a grab bar incorrectly, it's going to create a safety hazard for anyone who uses it and applies enough pressure to it eventually.

Claw Foot Bath Tubs - Adding Victorian Luxury to a Bathroom

Claw foot bath tubs are a symbol of Victorian style at its finest. Today, with all of the bathtub choices available, one type of tub continues to make its appearance in homes around the world. This one tub style is the claw foot bathtub, because of its fashionable appearance and time-tested design. In spite of being hundreds of years old, the claw foot tub remains a solid choice for homeowners who want to own a part of history.

The claw foot bathtub is becoming a popular choice for adding luxury to a bathroom. Modern technology has allowed claw foot bathtub manufacturers to make a few changes when compared to the tubs of the past. The most noticeable change in today's claw foot bathtub is how much lighter the new tubs are compared to the older tubs. Traditional claw foot bathtubs were made of cast iron and would commonly require four to five men to carry and place in the bathroom. The new modern claw foot tubs are mostly made from fiberglass materials, making them only weigh a fraction of what the older cast iron tubs weighed. Carrying and installing a new claw foot tub is much easier and can be accomplished with less help. Although the materials used to make the new claw foot bathtubs have changed, the appearance remains the same.

Choosing a claw foot bathtub today adds something special to a bathroom. Many homeowners will agree that claw foot tubs bring a touch of Victorian elegance to their homes just like the big and beautiful Victorian homes of the past. The addition of a claw foot tub continues to make bathrooms more luxurious and their trademark style will never go out of style.

First snowskate mini of 2009-10 Winter

Enjoy :) Just a backyard sesh haha



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQC_446hJLo&hl=en

Bronze Railings

If you're looking to improve the look of your home, then all you have to do is add some bronze railings to the staircase or the deck. These railings are certainly an eye opener inside or outside your home and can be used at both. Bronze is absolutely an amazing metal and has been used for many centuries for many things. Today you can see it in people's homes where it adds both beauty and value. Before you buy bronze make sure it will match the décor of your home. There are many uses for bronze metal in today's world and one of these uses is railings.

The list for bronze uses just goes on and on. Some people have their gates made out of bronze. A garden gate done in bronze adds a regal air to your home. Some people use it for fencing, plant stands and many other things, such as your patio furniture. Bronze is a metal that last over the years and stands up well against weather and the elements.

Bronze can change your home from simplicity to elegance inside or out. Use it on your spiral staircase inside your home and see how it gives the impression of castle like feeling. Other people just use bronze on their front door while other will do as much as they can in their home with bronze and this sometimes includes their patio furniture. The beauty that it adds to your home is unbelievable until you see it.

If you have a flower garden, then surround it in bronze and let the railings make your garden that much more special. Place it on your front door and give your home a lift by having it there. This wonderful material knows no bounds from large gates to the small planter it can be anything you want.

Knockout By Exercise Machine - Weightlifting Fail

This dude loses his grip on a lat machine bar and it slams up into his chin.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xj--XBsiN_M&hl=en

Senior Safety - The Grab Bar

The older I get the more comfortable I am around grab bars and hand rails. Everyone young and old can agree the grab bars or hand railings are a definite advantage in the shower stall when washing your feet. But, a long hallway or a large stair landing always stays safer with well mounted hand rails too.  

Grab Bar Installation
                        
Any grab bar or hand rail is only as safe as the backing it is anchored into. Backing is  wood blocking or concrete installed behind the drywall, plaster or finished shower walls such as fiberglass, marble or cultured marble. The grab bar backing must be 2" by 6" blocks minim 6" long or two (2) layers of ¾" plywood minim 6"by 6" stacked, glued and screw through the face of the drywall.  

If proper steps like those mentioned above are not taken serious injury can occur if the grab bar would pull out f the wall unexpectedly when pressure is applied.        
    
Grab Bar Location  

Another Senior Safety tip for effectively and safely installing grab bars involves the placement of grab bars. Good placement of grab bars and safety handrails is anywhere you need to change your elevation slowly, steadily and under control. If the grab bar will be used when seated, mount the bar on a slant starting low and close to toilet or other seated location at a maximum of 24" above the finished flooring. The bar should be slanting upward toward the direction of egress. This will ensure that the person using the bar for support can reach it comfortably and get the most help possible from the grab bar.                            

Safety railings and grab bars can eliminate falls and promote stability and confidence to every one who could need a hand.  For more information about grab bars visit www.seniorsafetystore.com           

How to Make the 8-Ball on the Break - Top Secret Methods Used by the Pros

I was having an adult beverage with a friend of mine the other evening when the discussion of pool came up. I was, for over 10 years in the APA; The American Poolplayers Association, and an avid pool shooter. So, he was telling me about how his brother had a table in his basement and... well that is a complete story unto itself... So it got me to thinking about how I used to put the 8-Ball in on the break 1 out of 10 times and how that might be of some interest to someone. I realize those numbers seem quite high and unrealistic, and they are, but, these stats are recorded, plus I still have the pins, trophies, patches, and other paraphernalia as proof. So, here is the true "How-To" on how to put the 8-On-The-Break...

The first thing to discuss is the table. There are 4 standard sized tables used in America. For this lesson, we will only be discussing the "Bar" Table and the "Regular" Table. The "Oversized 8" and the "Full Size" take a lot more practice to master... anything on than these other two, and this article is for the average guy, not for the pros. These two tables are the most common and what most everyone who plays pool in a local hall or tavern will play on, so this is what we will concentrate the lesson on. That was easy. Next is the Rack itself. The rack while we really do not think much about it, has a lot to do with how the balls scatter when they are struck by the cue ball on the break

The photos on our site show standard 8-Ball Racks. You will notice the 1 Ball is not the "Head Ball". The rules of 8-Ball do not require it to be out front so don't make a scene about that. Second, the balls must be tight. No loosey-goosey racks if you are trying to put an 8-On-The-Break. Most opponents do not mind re-racking if you ask nicely. I realize a lot of the bar tables may have divots and such, so have them do the tightest rack they can. The main idea is to get the front 10 balls tightly touching. If the back corner drops off, well that's the risk of playing on a bar table. Next lets discuss the position of the cue ball on the table. If you are familiar with a pool table, you know about diamonds. These are the spots on the rails marking different portions of the table.

On a standard break, your cue is positioned anywhere behind the second diamond "The Head String", at the head of the table. Your goal is to strike the head "position" ball and scatter the balls. For the 8-On-The-Break, you will require a bit more accuracy... actually to get to the 1 out of 10 you will require perfect accuracy. Here is the first real "How To" get the 8-Ball in on the break. Position the cue ball either right side or left side, on the head string second diamond, which ever you prefer. When you get good, you can switch it up and make your opponent antsy. For this lesson we are going to use just the right side to shorten the writing. OK, right side head string diamond. Close all but three fingers in your hand and use this as a measuring stick. So, right side second diamond, three fingers out from the rail. That is where the cue ball NEEDS to be positioned for an 8-On-The-Break. Next Step is the "Practice Makes Perfect" part of the lesson; English on the cue ball on the break. If you are not familiar with or do not feel comfortable using English yet, my next article will be English Made Easy, so watch for it. English on the cue ball for the 8-On-The-Break is really simple once you get the hang of it.

English on the cue ball should be low bottom left, or (into the rack), for the perfect strike. Imagine the cue ball having a box with nine spots on it perfectly centered across and down; 3-Across and 3-Down. Pick the spot that is on the bottom left corner. Once you learn this spot, it works like a charm, but I caution you, practice, practice, practice, and did I mention practice, because until you learn it, be wary of the cue ball, as it will likely fly off the table, or scratch in the corner pocket. Remember, I said accuracy The next and final step is the aiming point on the rack. We discussed the rack above, but not where the cue ball should hit it. This is another step which requires a certain amount of practice. Once the cue ball is lined up second diamond up, three fingers out, position yourself to be able to strike the cue ball with force on the lower left corner. Aim directly at the center of the 2nd ball on the right side of the rack and let it go.

If all steps are performed as written here, you will have a very good shot at dropping the 8-On-The-Break. Here is a very close analogy, think of trying to through a strike in bowling. Same spot... and with the English, you get just enough spin to "Hit The Pocket" ... I truly hope this adds to your game... It is a blast to drop an 8-On-The-Break... Get's the juices flowing. GOOD LUCK!

Shower Glass Doors and the Mold Free Bathroom

The days of the old and moldy shower curtain are numbered in today's contemporary bathroom. The modern homeowner demands a bathroom that is more clean, stylish and hygienic. A shower room that will make a statement of fashion and style, while at the same time providing an environment that is free of sickness and or disease causing bacteria & mold. And the one thing that will deliver on these demands of modernity is the Glass Shower Enclosure.

Unlike shower curtains, glass does not provide a breeding ground for germs and bacteria that will only make you and your loved ones sick. Instead of putting that old shower curtain in your washing machine to wash, and quite possibly spreading microscopic bacteria and mold in it, that will later just infect the whole household. You can just use your favorite bathroom disinfectant cleaner to wipe down the glass. Then rinse, squeegee and you are done.

Yet please do not get the wrong impression and think I am saying that a glass shower door is 100% bacteria & mold free. For that simply is not the case. Every shower door has a gasket at the bottom that keeps the water from getting out of the shower into the rest of the bathroom. A good one is the "Clear Bottom Wipe with a Drip Rail. After time the Drip Rail will begin to accumulate bacteria, then mold. The simple low cost solution is to replace & recycle it every six to seven months. Another issue is the silicon, which is used to put a watertight seal on the glass. With time silicon will begin to accumulate bacteria and mold. The solution is to use a "Mildew Resistant Silicon", which will do just as its' name implies.

Simple precautions from the very beginning of the glass shower door's installation. To the routine cleanliness by the users, is more than sufficient to keep a bathroom bacteria and mold free.

FIRE THE GRID I Date set!-- JOIN US ON NOVEMBER 11, 2011

www.firethegrid.org http Fire the Grid I — Be One. The earth's vibration has been increasing steadily since July 28, 2009 and many feel it quite acutely. Accelerated consciousness is spreading everywhere as humans become ever more present and accountable for their role in the energetic creation of a new world. Previously "hidden" or inaccessible portals containing wake up codes for the Soul are making themselves known to many, in ways we had only dreamed of previously. Today, we are thrilled to share the next date. As some have now realized, the FTG events have been a countdown, beginning with FTG III back on July 17, 2007 and moving forward. The trilogy of FTG events has been vital to begin the healing of the earth grid while raising our collective consciousness to facilitate this transition into a new paradigm. The next and final FTG energy date is November 11, 2011 at 11:11 GMT. This date has again been given to Shelley by her guides, wonderful otherworldly beings she has described as liquid light in appearance, and immeasurably Loving. Vibrationally, November 11, 2011 at 11:11 GMT is the most substantial energy date of the three thus far. It will be encoded as the previous two with highly charged awakening potential as a cosmic opening rains down creative energy upon the earth. All three FTG dates have been shared with us so that we might heal our planet all while reconnecting with our Divine origin by truly living the lives our Souls intended for us before we arrived ...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ilnDZadPkg&hl=en

Replacing and Repairing Ceramic Tile

The pretty parts of the plumbing system--ceramic tile, soap dishes and towel bars, and the porcelainized surfaces of fixtures--need repairs as much as the pipes. Gleaming chrome dulls with layers of mineral deposits; ceramic or porcelain enamel is discolored by rust stains--usually because of a dripping faucet that should have been repaired--or by chemicals in water. A hair dryer slips from the hand--and you have a chipped bathtub. Ceramic tiles may even loosen and fall from the wall because of poor installation or the cumulative effects of time and humidity.

And one of the most common bathroom repairs--sealing cracks in the joint between the bathtub and the wall-- is a repetitive chore because of changes in the weight of the tub as it is filled and emptied again and again.

Whatever job you tackle, take practical precautions. Wear goggles when you shatter a tile; wear gloves when you work with powerful cleansers or wet grout. And when surrounded by the brittle surfaces of a bathroom, handle heavy tools with special care--a single slip can add a new repair job.

Replacing A Ceramic Tile

1. Removing the tile: Using a hammer and cold chisel and wearing goggles, smash the center of the tile, then pry out the pieces. If a tile falls out in one piece and can be reused, scrape away the old cement on its back. Remove all loose or uneven cement from the tile bed.

2. Resetting the tile: Apply tile adhesive to the back of the tile and holding it by its edges, set it into its place so that it is even with the adjacent tiles. If the tile does not have little spacer lugs on two sides, place toothpicks in the joint to space it. Let the tile glue dry overnight.

3. Applying the grout: use already-mixed tile grout to fill and seal the joint spaces around the new tile. First force the grout into the joints with the tip of your finger, then use a moist cloth or window squeegee to remove the surplus grout from the tiles on either side.

How Shower Systems Work

1. Do you understand how your shower system works? It is very common for many to perceive that all showers can be used at all homes. However, don't be surprised to find out not all the shower systems operate the same way. Just bear in mind rule #1: some showers cannot go with some heating system. As you scroll down, you will find more useful tips to help you to choose the perfect shower to complete your bathroom.

ELECTRIC SHOWERS

Goes perfectly within almost all domestic water systems. Cold water is heated up as it passes through a specialised element inside the unit. Thinking of fitting an electric shower to the underside of your cold water tank? Simply arrange an open space at least 10 metres from your shower spray and there you go. In this case, a self-supporting cold supply tank is necessary.

Other requirements include: min 1 bar of water running pressure at mains entry
8 liters per minute of flowing rate
10 bar of maximum static pressure

On top of that, make sure a connection is established between the shower and the mains with 15mm water pipe and also installation of an isolation tap. The tap is installed to control the flow when maintenance is required as well as to prevent disruption of other waters use. As far as electrical connection is concerned, there are many regulations to be taken into consideration including electric shower. To install an electric shower, you will need to have an independent circuit for installation to avoid pressure from other connections or appliance. If you are not sure about this, check your fuse board to find out its capability in catering current of rate 60 amps and above. After that, take up the following steps:

1. install a residual current device (RCD) as either part of existing fuse board or detach, disrupting the circuit shower

2. make sure the circuit shower connection to the fuse board by means of miniature circuit breaker (MCB)

3. use 10 mm cables for installation considering the importance of fuse, switch and cable as well as upgrade in the future.

Mixer Showers are themed after its function and ability in mixing existing hot and cold water in a special tap before flowing from the shower head. You can find these units presented as surface mounted fixtures to simplify the installation of pipeline on the top of existing surface, or flush mounted. The water flows from the tap is very much depended on the rate it feeds the shower. The flow rate of mixer shower may be affected when other taps are in used because it is connected to other taps. The effect of water temperature can be overcome by using low pressure system through the installation of two different pipes for hot and cold water. A main fed mixer is needed to function as thermostatic tap.

Thermostatic Mixer Showers are specialised to sense the changes in temperature with the existence of pre-set thermostat. In some improved thermostatic mixers, the water will be cut off when water fails to flow. A temperature limiting devise can be found in most thermostatic mixers in preventing high temperature being used.

Power Showers, unlike most of the showers have to be installed in low pressure, tank fed systems. With the existence of integral pumps, their main function is to increase the water flowing rate from the shower head. To install this unit, you must make sure the water in your cold water tank should be 50 gallons or more for many supplied outlets, however, 25 gallons will be good enough for shower alone.

Shower Pumps are categorized into 2: Single impeller pump, a pump while mix water with one driving blade is easier to install in the loft and must be above mixer tap. Twin impeller pump, an advance pump helps to overcome problem faced by single impeller pump when meeting cold temperatures in the extremely freezing water and fail to insulate as free air flow is required. It is connected to hot and cold water and creates a perfect mixture in the airing board before reaching the tap. General specification such as the pump must be stored at least 30mm beneath the cold tank and 4 metre in the proximity of hot water cylinder as well as electrical connection rated at 5amps.

Koda & Shawn's Landslide Edit

kodaand shawn skating at lanslide skatepark in michigan



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cvzBKNW_m4&hl=en

skateing

a bunch of trix skechy boardslide



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LxIOcS20hM&hl=en

Ballet Bar - A Great Option For Beginners

Bar ballets or barre are the railings that most of the dancers use to bring certain positions and movements in a balance. These are used as rehearsal items. Dancers use these for warm up exercises as well.

Types: These are generally of two types including fixed and portable option.

Fixed: These are most often mounted on walls and permanent. These can not move. It is a horizontal rod that is attached to the wall.

Portable: These are free standing items that can be moved easily. It is also a horizontal rail that can be moved easily when required. This helps to develop strength and balance especially for the beginners. This should not be too heavy so that it can pick up easily by the dancers. Mostly the portable ballet bars are horizontal and single line. However, some square and triangular shapes are also available. These may require more storage space than a single line barre. Sometimes these are formed in a way that can be fold easily.

Size: There is no standard and specific size for that bar. It all depends on the way this bar is constructed and the material used. Usually the bar has diameter not more than 2 inches. The bar of 1-1/2 or 2 inches is considered the best and comfortable option. Heights of these bars also vary. However, mostly just above the waist or forty plus inches are preferred. The shortest length is usually 4 feet. Bars more than 12 feet are too heavy and can not handled with convenience.

Material: These can be made with the help of metal, plastic and wood.

Wood: the most classic material used for this purpose. It is comparatively light weight material and the end product it produces is also nice in touch and appearance. These are available in six plus lengths and expensive as well. The rails made of cheap wood may deteriorate and damaged easily. Wood rails are weaker than metal made item. However, stronger as compared to plastic.

These can be used as fixed bars with floor or wall support. However, when used as portable item this is not so efficient. The bar may damage with frequent motions.

Metal: This is comparatively inexpensive and strong choice. Most of the dancers preferred this material. However, its cost depends on the metal that is used. It has greater strength. Some metals used are aluminum, and steel.

Aluminum is light weighted but weak item when compared with steel. This requires more appropriate support as well. Moreover, aluminum bar must be coated with some special powder otherwise it will turn your hands black when handled frequently. Aluminum is also bit expensive than steel.

Plastic: It is the most inexpensive and light item that can be used easily with great convenience. Moreover, it is the most available material. It is usually not recommended for fixed barres because these are not that much strong.

As a portable item, these are very suitable especially when the budget is tight and most of the student crew is young. Moreover, if someone opens a new studio, plastic barres are the best available option. A drawback associated with this item is that these may break with heavy weight of student's legs and feet.

Bathtub Grab Bars - Safety For Bathrooms

Along with the disabled and elderly, families with young children and even a pregnant mom will benefit from the extra added security in being able to safely enter and exit a bathtub or shower area. We all know slipping and falling on a wet bathroom surface is no fun and can be dangerous.

The first point here is to be sure we have the correct bar. Being that this is a wet environment, most bars are stainless steel, but there are other moisture resistant choices such as powder coat paint, brass and even different shapes that don't quite look like the traditional curve ended institutional stainless, although stainless is the most functional and cleans up the best.

ADA (American Disabilities Act) compliant bars are the only ones to use and are available most anywhere and are fairly simple to install when following the instructions provided with no shortcuts to ensure a proper installation. When installed properly, they are rated to withstand a 500 lbs. pull.

Most bars come in various lengths from 12 to 48 inches for the straight ones, to ones that have right angles and even ones that can be custom made if you have an unusual or specific install situation. Diameters are 1 1/2 (commercial) and 1 1/4 inch, with 1 1/2 inch clearance between bar and surface. The 1 1/4 inch diameter is ample for any residential use.

Some safety bars are fold away in function, particularly ones meant for use around toilets, which then gives the option for either use, depending upon who needs the bar or not, and there are smaller more temporary installations that clamp on the side of a bathtub to assist with getting in and out.

The most important rule to follow in a permanent installation is that any safety grab bar must be attached to a wood wall stud or a pre-placed interior wall block 2 x 6 or 8. Common wall anchors or molly bolts are not acceptable and could just be a problem and or worse yet, an injury later.

After saying all that, I know there is a wall anchor out there that meets mounting standards and is called Toggler, I have personally never used any of these but they are supposed to be acceptable for mounting grab bars when no stud in the wall is available in the position needed. This is an option to consider when necessary, but the best way at all possible is use the studs as first choice.

Many bars are installed at an angle to match up with the studs, in addition to horizontal and vertical, and still will allow versatility for the user.

If you are in a remodel situation and have removed the old tub, or shower, and have the walls open, then that would be the time to put in pre-placed 2x6 or 8 blocking between studs for exact placement of bars later, just a little planning ahead for placement will make for proper, safe installation when finishing the project. Just be sure to write down measurements in order to locate the blocks later for easier installation.

So many repair and specialty items are now available to us than used to be, with a little direction and the right tools, you can also do this job yourself..

Cumbria abuse crash/ dodgy point work

Cumbria rail crash in the light of day, more than one coach is off the line since the evening of the 23rd reports. Only one fatality still one too many though. Richard Branson says "The Pendolino train was built like a tank!" A ground Frame set of points are the hint to a possible reason for the derailment? this area was to be worked on over the weekend also so could this have any connection to the incident? As it was guessed at the time the ground frame points failed and the contractors missed a broken strecher bar just as they did in Potters Bar a few years before.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2agnBJv8iys&hl=en

Las Vegas Monorail - Harrah's - Imperial Palace Station

The Monorail in Las Vegas is the most convenient and efficient way of getting up and down the strip, from the Sahara all the way down to the MGM Grand and 5 stops in between. Tickets cost $5 for one trip or $12 for an all-day pass. This stop is convenient for visiting the Sands Expo Convention Center, which was my destination to participate in the InventBay.com Convention, a great resource for inventors like myself.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OMPVDfDQh4&hl=en

Bedroom Decorating - Simple and Affordable Ways to Create a Ballerina Room Your Daughter Will Adore

Create a simple and affordable ballerina themed bedroom design by implementing some of the eight easy ideas included in this article.

Use a light pink gingham comforter on the bed.  Add a light pink dust ruffle and some accent throw pillows. If you can not locate a gingham comforter, you could reverse the design and have a solid pink comforter with a pink gingham dust ruffle and accent throw pillows.

Use a soft pink complementary paint color. The paint should be a little lighter than the bedding selection, but complement the dominant color of the bedding.

Select a ballet wall border. There are several ballet wallpaper borders available at online discount wallpaper stores. You can find wallpaper borders that feature just ballet shoes or with ballerinas dancing. Choose a wall border with pink and white colors so that it coordinates with the overall room theme.

Make your own window treatments.  First, hang a soft white voile sheer drapery panel on the window.  Then, tie ballet shoes to white cording and use them as customized tiebacks for your window sheers. Finally, add a soft rod pocket valance in pink gingham fabric (that coordinates with your bedding).

Install floor to ceiling mirrors on one wall. This will be the ballet dancers studio wall and will really bring the theme to life for your little dancer.

Install a ballet bar to the mirror wall. The ballet bar can be created by purchasing a thick closet bar or stair railing at your local home improvement or discount store. The ballet bar can be installed by using railing brackets.

Install a chair railing on the additional walls.  Paint the chair rail white and add white wooden pegs so that your child may hang ballet accessories such as ballet shoes, dance costumes, leotards and tutus for display.

Create your own customized lamp and shade.  You can find a simple ballet themed stamp and pink ink at your local discount craft store for next to nothing.  Purchase a simple, but elegant white wood lamp and shade. Stamp the pink ballet themed design onto the shade and tie a simple pink ribbon around the base to complete the accent.

Any of these eight ballet decorating ideas, or all of them, are simple and inexpensive solutions that can bring this design theme to your home with little cost and effort.

Installing a Heated Towel Rail

There is a wide variety of towel rails available, so select one carefully to match your needs. As rails can be mounted against a wall they are not very obtrusive and you should really choose the largest one that can fit neatly into the space available in your bathroom. That way, of course, you'll be able to dry the whole family's towels at the same time. It's a good idea to get rails that incorporate a pilot light as this will help you not to leave them on when they're not being used - always an easy thing to do. It this is impossible make sure that the mains outlet point is fitted with a neon indicator. After deciding where you're going to mount the rails, make sure that they can be safely fixed to the walls. Check that they'll be level and mark their position before drilling and plugging the wall. You can then screw the rails in place. Floor-mounted models are also available, and will have to be screwed to the floor surface.

Towel rails obtain their power from a spur on the ring circuit via a switched fused connection unit fixed out of reach of bath or shower. Fix this as close as possible to the towel rail However, as it's unlikely that the flex already attached to the rail will be long enough to reach the unit, you'll have run a length of 1.5mm2 two-core and earth cable to a flex outlet plate mounted close to the rail, and connect in the flex at that point.

The Maya Diaries - Episode 13 - Europe Trip - Berlin

Well here we are Ladies and Gentlemen, the second video in my 5 part series documenting my trip around Europe. When I left you last I was enjoying a comfortable nights sleep courtesy of Andre. in the morning I travelled to Berlin. Possibly the most cosmopolitan and diverse cities on our roadmap around Europe. This description is meant to be a supplement to the video and will therefore not blandly describe the events that you see. I suppose it is meant to be a reward for those willing to take the time and actually read the supplementary information. Obviously I don't have time to go into everything I did in burning in a 10 minute video so all just post some notes of interest and prose of wisdom. Some reason Berlin was the first place we visited gave us an air of trepidation, I mentioned briefly in the video that a large proportion of the buildings and objects around where we were staying were covered in graffiti. There was graffiti in places which you thought it would be impossible for anybody to reach however this vagrant art form prevailed. I don't want to be the sort of person to jump to conclusions about the inhabitants of a location covered in tags however it doesn't instil in me a feeling of local pride. I really did like the hostel boat, the ever so slight rocking of the cabin and the serene bar on the top deck really added value. What are having gone into depth about during the course of these videos are the interesting people that we met along the way. I've ...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMZ-x-nCdZo&hl=en

{HQ} LMS Coronation Class 4-6-2 #46233 Duchess of Sutherland through Hadley Wood (Northbound)

On Saturday 18th October 2008 just after 5:30pm, LMS Coronation Class 4-6-2 no 46233 Duchess of Sutherland on "The London Explorer" flies northbound through Hadley Wood on the down slow line on it's way from London King's Cross, with a Class 47 (47826) at the rear. 1Z63 -----STEAM hauled----- London Kings Cross / dep - 17.18 Finsbury Park / PASS - 17.26 Potters Bar / PASS - 17.44 Stevenage / PASS - 17.58 Sandy / PASS - 18.13 Huntingdon / PASS - 18.25 -----WATER stop----- Holme LC / arr - 18.35 / dep - 19.18 -----WATER stop----- Peterborough / PASS - 19.26 Tallington Jc / PASS - 19.34 Stoke Tunnel / PASS - 19.56 Grantham / arr - 20.05 / dep - 20.09 Bingham / PASS - 20.35 Nottingham / arr - 20.53 -----STEAM hauled----- -----DIESEL hauled----- Nottingham / dep - 21.34 Alfreton / arr - 21.58 Chesterfield / arr - 22.12 Sheffield / arr - 22.41 -----DIESEL hauled----- (Thanks to www.uksteam.info // www.uksteam.info for train details) Watch out after she's been through for the NXEC Electric train chasing her on the down fast line. Hadley Wood station is located between New Barnet and Potters Bar and is on theEast Coast Main Line (ECML). Filmed on my Kodak EasyShare M883 8.0Megapixel digital camera. Please note I may have got the timings wrong or confused, ie: she may have actually stopped at Potters Bar or Peterborough. If you have any further information or updates on times please contact me (full thanks/credit will be given). LEGAL/COPYRIGHT NOTICE: This is the original video ...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swamI3RD9x4&hl=en

Buying and Using a Trampoline - Safety Guidelines and Advice

A trampoline can provide huge health benefits for the whole family and hours of fun. They have become more popular in recent years, but with their increased popularity there has come about an increased number of accidents through their use.

According to the royal society for the prevention of accidents approximately 75% of injuries occur when more than one person is on the trampoline with the person weighing less five times more likely to be injured. Children of a young age are particularly vulnerable to injury. Also unless the child is supervised by a trained 'spotter', adult supervision seems to do little to prevent accidents with about half of all injuries occurring with adult supervision.

Many of these accidents can be reduced by following some simple guidelines. It is also important to ensure you purchase the right trampoline and trampoline accessories. Trampoline nets and trampoline padding can prevent or reduce injury considerably.

What to consider when buying

Spending a bit more money on a trampoline and purchasing safety pads and safety nets can greatly reduce the risk of injury.

A good safety pad will cover the outer frame, the springs and hooks. A good safety enclosure or net will cover the inside of the outer rail of the trampoline. The outer rail is the circular bar to which trampoline springs are attached. This will not just prevent falls onto the ground but also on the hard outer surface of the trampoline where accidents are common.

Some trampoline models promoted as safe can have some major weaknesses and flaws particularly the budget trampolines which are often made of low quality materials and are poorly constructed. Ensure that the tubing used for the trampoline is of adequate thickness to prevent breakages and that the trampoline is not too light weight which may cause it to move around or flip over during use.

Springs and Springless Trampolines
When purchasing a trampoline or replacing springs ensure that the springs are galvanized to prevent corroding. As a general rule the larger the trampoline the more springs a trampoline will require and the longer and thicker the springs should be.

Springless or springfree trampolines use reinforced fibreglass rods or elastic rather then springs. These trampoline are often promoted as safer then trampolines with springs. However because of their design the entire surface rotates each time the user hits the mat. This can cause pain and discomfort and even result in long term damage to the knees over time. Also many of the cheap models create an inferior bounce compared to the spring trampolines.

Trampoline Safety Guidelines
Choose a clear area for the trampoline clear from hazards such as trees, fences or toys.

Never place the trampoline on a hard surface such as concrete. A fall on a hard surface is significantly more likely to result in serious injury. If you do not have a soft grassy lawn you can purchase bark wood chip or sand to go around the trampoline.

Trampolines can move around while in use so tie the trampoline down. You can use a tether kit for this.

Never let more than one child use the trampoline at the same time. Statistics show that accidents are much more likely when two or more persons are using the trampoline at the same time with the lightest person most likely to be injured.

Always supervise children and avoid allowing them to practice somersaults. These should only be performed in a properly organised club. Also exit a trampoline the proper way, not by jumping off!

Avoid them wearing or carrying anything hard like ipods or toys when jumping.

Encourage them to bounce in the centre of the trampoline and keep other children back away from the trampoline. Never let them go underneath a trampoline.

If any parts of the trampoline are damaged avoid use and purchase the correct replacements before continuing.

Trampoline Storage

When not in use ensure that the trampoline is kept dry to prevent rusting and that the mat is kept away from the sun as the ultraviolet rays of the sun can corrode the mat.

Options for Improving the State of Your Roller Shades

Roller shades have been around for many years. Long ago in history many people had roller shades installed in their windows. Some of these roller shades still look quite beautiful. However it should be understood, and expected, that by now many of these roller shades that are in windows have deteriorated and gone by the wayside. Some of the wear and tear may be quite natural, including control systems that break down or fabrics that have ripped and torn or simply don't look right anymore. In any case, for most homeowners or business owners want to have attractive window treatments in their spaces.

Among the most common problems that consumers have with roller shades are failures in the control system. Sometimes roller shades "don't want to roll up anymore." Other times, they are stuck in position. For the first of these situations, you may simply find that if you can reroll your roller shade, you can tighten the springs and have it roll up better. In the case of a shade that is stuck, you must be very careful to not damage the fabric while trying to fix the shade. Many of these situations are complete losses, meaning that you will need to replace the roller shades. This is because the older control systems, those managed by springs, are no longer the commonplace or easy to obtain shades. So in the end, if you have a shade control system that is not working properly it is often advisable to get a new roller shade with the new control system.

Many consumers ask whether they can get a new roller shade control system for their existing fabric. This would seem the most logical way of reusing the same fabric and saving money by not having to waste that same fabric on a new shade. However given the updates and new fabrics that are available on the market, as well as the new methods of manufacturing roller shades, it is not as cost-effective and easy as many would think. It may not be so much of a waste, however, to buy new roller shades. For one thing the new fabrics are technically more capable. For another, the new control systems are substantially more durable and will protect your roller shade fabric so it will last much longer in your windows.

Another common roller shade problem is ripped, warped, or otherwise damaged roller shade fabric. The heavy use of vinyl coated fabrics, those that are typically called blackout, were substantially more common in the past. Those fabrics, unfortunately the lighter weight ones, were more often susceptible to ripping than modern-day fabrics, particularly those from woven polyester or other threads. The damages to these roller shade fabrics have often created ugly or less than presentable roller shades. Many consumers have wondered if it is possible to repair this fabric by replacing a section of the fabric. Unfortunately, replacing a section of fabric is not a possibility. However, some roller shade fabrics can endure a slight repair, like sewing or other repair. Beware though, excessive sewing may lead to an expanded problem. Often times, the sewing of roller shade fabric will simply delay the inevitable- the entire destruction of their roller shade. In the end, it is usually advisable for consumers to begin thinking about replacing roller shades when this type of deterioration begins.

Some roller shades will cause damage to the surrounding area. The scraping of a roller shade bottom rail against a window frame is not uncommon. Sometimes, this bottom rail, also called a hem bar, will run into a wall or otherwise run into a window frame. This type of damage can usually be corrected by making slight changes to the bottom rail like cutting it with a saw. Sometimes this hitting into a wall is a sign of other problems. A roller shade that is not properly squared up may have other damage to the fabric at the controls at the top of the roller shade. It is important to make sure that the roller shade is rolling up properly and that there are no other damages to the fabric or the control system.

While many consumers would like to try to repair or update or otherwise renovate their roller shades, it is usually considered advisable for simple replacement of that one shade or the several with problems. The new control systems will help your shades last longer and look more beautiful for a longer period of time.

The Towel Rail Buyers Guide: What You Would Love to Know About Towel Rails

No; towel rails do not have to be makeshift hanging rods where you can drape towels on. Well, hanging rods do serve the purpose, but when you can have something that is both functional and nice-looking, why not go for it? Bathroom rails help keep your bathroom organized, and more importantly, the right kinds will help keep your towels clean, which they are supposed to be, especially that you use them right after cleaning up yourself. However, with the vast number of options in the market today, you are going to need a buyers guide that not only will get you a starting point in the hunt for the ideal towel rail, but can also help you save up some extra cash.

In this buyers guide, two major aspects will be considered - the type of the towel rail, and the price. Yes, bathroom rails come in shapes and sizes imaginable and while they do not come as freebies, you can get one in a good price.

Types

Towel rails are usually categorized according to function, and according to style. They can either be contemporary, or traditional. However, contemporary rails are more common in the online market. If you are looking for traditional rails for a country-style home, they are available as well but not in the same number of options as contemporary rail types. After all, modern bathrooms are all the rage today. Come to think of it, when it comes to shower rooms, modern is always good because it is characterized by intuitiveness and straightforwardness that one would appreciate in such a place.

Classified according to function, towel rails can either be heating or non-heating. Heating towel rails are perfect for those cold winter mornings where one may dislike the feel of a cold, not-so-fluffy towel right after taking a warm bath. Some heating bathroom rails are capable of giving off enough radiant heat to warm an entire bathroom, albeit a not-very-large one.

Price

Heating rails can be pricey, but there are some that you can have for a surprisingly good price. Some people are lucky enough to bump into a product offer during its introduction to the market (hence the significantly lower introductory price). For some people, it isn't just a matter of luck as they have actually opted-in for a home improvement accessories vendor mailing list, and have been informed about an upcoming sale or products available in discount prices. You may also want to get in touch with direct distributors of the products, or at least, those that are as close to the manufacturer as possible. That way, you get fewer markups. If you are undergoing a full renovation for your home, it would be a good idea t buy in bulk for bulk purchase discounts and a reduction in shipping costs.

Towel rails are fast becoming an essential in the Home Improvement - Bathroom category, and with good reason. This buyer's guide may not be the end-all of every buying guide, but it can get you a good head start. Get browse-happy now and start looking for the towel rail that would be perfect for your bathroom.

Wall Mounted Soap Dispenser - A More Hygienic Solution

While several decades ago the standard when it came to public toilet soaps were the bars of soap. Nowadays, from highway gas stations to luxurious hotels and restaurants are using wall mounted soap dispensers in their bathrooms. The truth is that bars may be normal in your home, but they had a large disadvantage in public bathrooms: every person washing their hands had to touch the bar of soap and if a person would not clean his hands thoroughly, dirt and other residue would remain on it. Soap bars are also easier to steal. You may laugh, but many restaurants and hotels had to spend a lot of money on replacing their collection, as these would disappear quickly from the bathrooms.

The sanitation federal department had one main concern when they recommended public establishments to use wall mounted soap dispensers instead of soap bars. There was a large danger of germs spreading by many people using and touching the bars of soap one after another. Restaurants, for example, are places that must be kept clean the entire time and the staff working in their should be constantly clean and germ free. There have been reported cases when restaurant personnel become infected by taking different germs from soap bars. Recent medical recommendations say that restaurant personnel should have their own, private, bathroom and they are not allowed to touch the same bar that has been used for another person before them. You may say that soap is used to kill germs and bacteria and to remove dirt and residue, but the truth is that none can guarantee you a 100% germ killing action and some bacteria species can remain alive on bars of soap and areas around the bathroom sink.

These are unknown problems to wall mounted soap dispensers. By touching only the small plastic thing used to release the soap, the risk for germ contamination is greatly reduced (of course, there are some that use brass material in their construction, but those are a bit more expensive). Many people can use the same wall mounted soap dispenser one after another and none of them will touch the dispenser itself or another area around the sink. There are manually operated dispensers and there are automated devices that make use of infrared technology to sense when you are approaching your hands to it delivering a small quantity of soap on your hands. Many people think that their bathrooms will not look classy anymore if they install one. However, there are many types available: there are chrome finish devices, there are devices that imitate perfectly a wooden texture or transparent dispensers.

If your bathroom furniture has a certain color, there are wall mounted soap dispensers covered in many times of colored plastic. They are easy to install, requiring only minimum effort from you. You can use double adhesive tape or you can stick them to the wall using small screws. Refilling the dispenser is very easy too. All you have to do is lift its cover and pour the desired amount of liquid soap. Using this kind of refilling liquid is also a lot cheaper and convenient compared to using traditional bars in your bathroom. There are many shops offering you a large array of wall mounted soap dispensers. If you buy large quantities, you may even get a significant discount.

CULO A BOCA "FUPA" Live at GIORGIO'S 2009

This was recorded on an open mic night at a pizza joint next to the Brass Rail bikini bar in Sunnyvale, CA that was only open for like two weeks. The band was missing two of the dudes that night. Sing-a-long, you meaty little freaks, FUPA!!!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58kaxpKPRjg&hl=en

Pseudokyn with Towel Intro!!!

Pseudokyn with Towel Intro!!!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYZbWKU4Tks&hl=en

How to Install a Chain Link Fence

A chain link fence is a great way of creating boundaries around a location like your yard while still keeping the space open and being able to see all around. If you are looking for something to provide seclusion then a chain link fence is probably not the best choice for you unless you are going to plant hedging along the fence. But by itself a chain link fence is very poor for seclusion as it is so open.

Installing a chain link fence may be quite pricey if you get a professional to do it but with a little assistance it is something that you can do by yourself. Here are a couple tips to help you install a chain link fence of your own.

Required Tools:

-Fencing
-Post hole digger
-Carpenter's level
-Strong string and stakes

Required Materials:

-Fencing
-Top rails
-Terminal Posts
-Line posts
-Cement
-Tension bars
-Tension bands
-Terminal post caps
-Loop caps
-Brace bands
-Carriage bolts
-Wire ties

Instructions:

As with all other home improvement projects, the first step when installing a chain link fence is to check if you need any building and zoning permits before you install your fence. Once this is worked out you may start. Use string and stakes to mark out the area where the fence will run. Find your underground utilities and stake out the place they are in so you do not interfere with them.

Use the post hole digger to dig holes 8-10 inches wide with a even bottom and not a rounded one, in other words the posts must rest level in the hole. Plant your terminal posts first (corner, end and gate posts) and use the cement to keep them in position. Use the level to guarantee that the posts are straight and level.

Next, dig holes for the line posts a maximum of 10 feet apart, between the terminal posts, 4 inches shorter than the terminal posts and cement them into place too; see to it that they are also straight.

Now slide the tension and brace bands over each terminal post and place a post cap on the top. Put loop caps on the top of ever line post and run the top rail through the loop caps. Use carriage bolts to attach the top rail to the brace band. Connect the top rails together right around the fenced area.

Lastly unroll the chain link material on the ground along the fence line and place a tension bar through the last link on the fencing. Put the fencing against the posts and fasten the tension bar to the terminal post with the tension bands and carriage bolts. Use the wire ties to stretch parts of the fencing to the top rail and keep it from sagging.

Tip:

Terminal posts ought to be 2 inches higher than the fencing material whereas line posts should be 2 inches shorter than the fencing material.